Chinatown Brasserie

It's the sort of place you go to for a special occasion.
Like, to kill the mob boss.

The decor of Chinatown Brasserie evokes a rich world of fantasy. The kind of thing you might see in a 50s technicolor rendition of a dangerous 20s city. It's the place with the back room where the men meet and smoke cigars, and drink fancy drinks, and hold their guns stiffly under the table. Mystery is thick.

Does the food add up? It does indeed. Superb and imaginative. Brasserie's version of General Tso's Chicken (a standard Chinese dish ordinarily globbed over with sticky residue) is transformed to a fresh tasting delight. Citrus undertones, with scallions and ginger used to effect. A must try.

Other interests on the diverse menu include: BBQ duck spring rolls, Crispy Orange Beef with Orange Zest, Chilies, & Grand Marnier, and an appetizer I'll confess I didn't try but will go back for: Chicken and Shrimp Lollipops.

Specialty cocktails to sample: Frozen Mai Tai, Beijing Breeze (Bulldog gin, cranberry puree, gingerale), and a personal favorite... Dark and Stormy (rum, ginger smash, and lime).

While I do think Chinatown Brasserie is original in its design and essence, the cuisine is reminiscent of the well known P.F Chang's China Bistro. I will note, although prolific elsewhere in the US (190 locations), there are none in Manhattan proper. So, for the time being the Brasserie stands alone.

A word of caution to those who are not in the business of money laundering: all the plates and fabulous drinks add up! So, should you elect to go, be prepared. Play the part. Put on pinstripe and and make your way downtown where the glow of red lanterns rubbs the tables raw, the chatter reeks of intrigue, and the food could well be the best last meal you'll ever have.

INFO:
Chinatown Brasserie
380 Lafayette Street (btw Great Jones St. & East 4)
Reservations: 212-533-7000 -0r- www.opentable.com
www.chinatownbrasserie.com