Wednesday, September 23, 2009

Chez Napoleon

MIDTOWN BUNKER

Authentic French in the Heart of Hell’s Kitchen

I almost don’t want to share it with you.

… But if you’re anything like me you’ll keep Chez Napoleon to yourself and the few friends you think deserve it.

Tucked away between Eighth and Ninth Avenue on 50TH is a tiny midtown bunker presided over by a genuine WWII hero, Grand-Mere Marguerite. When you step inside you are immediately overpowered by the sounds Piaf-esque accordion musings.

The sort of stuff that would be wildly out of place anywhere but… well, here. (Or maybe at a pretentious film screening of something called “Pant-o-the-Mime”. This is way better than that, I swear… and I’ll never ask you to come to a screening with me again.)

Small bar at the back guarded by a large man (Marguerite’s grandson, Guillame) serving French Martinis with a twist of attitude.

Order the Grand Marnier soufflé straight away. It’ll be ready after you’re stuffed full of a Steak Frites that does not disappoint.

The night ebbs by through rose-tinted glasses full of delicious house wine and subtle intellectual chatter by visiting professors and Francophiles in-the-know.

And as for our hero? You’ll find her at the conclusion of the evening sipping on brandy by the bar — a perfect occasion to ask her the details of her bravery in the kitchen and on the battlefield.

Vive la Révolution! (But keep it to yourself).

INFO:
Chez Napoleon
365 West 50TH ST. (btw 8/9 Ave.)
NYC 10019
www.cheznapoleon.com
212-265-6980

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